Thanks, NOLA, I Needed That!

Karen Derrick-Davis
4 hours ago
6 min read

Night parade scene with a vibrant float decorated in clouds and lights. People in costumes throw colorful beads to a cheering crowd below. — Covington Mardi Gras parade. "Throw me something, mister!"

These days are hard for me. Keeping hope alive is a daily challenge. New Orleans was an unexpected antidote. Our visit to NOLA was just what the mental health doctor ordered to brighten my spirits and restore my faith in our country's ability to stay together despite efforts of some at the top to divide us.

What I saw and experienced at Mardi Gras lifted me and felt SO different from the overwhelming brink-of-civil-war feeling of the news cycle. In the midst of the real chaos and constitution-defying actions of our federal government--there are people from all walks of life COMING TOGETHER, SAFELY & RESPECTFULLY, and having a massive community street party for a couple of weeks in the streets of New Orleans.

*** *** ***

We had planned to visit my cousin in early February, just coincidentally--not intentionally--during Mardi Gras season. We arrived the Saturday 10 days before Fat Tuesday with a scheduled departure four days later, still a week before the "big day."

Mardi Gras in New Orleans has never appealed to me. I thought of it as just a crazy drunken frenzy--an experience with no meaning and one that actually detracted from the whole New Orleans experience. Today, I am now a Mardi Gras fan(atic?)!

Within hours of our arrival, we climbed into my cousin's car for a drive across Lake Ponchartrain to a parade in Covington. She was intent on giving us a local's Mardi Gras experience--expressly different from a tourist's Mardi Gras. She secretly hoped we would extend our trip...her plan worked. After that first parade, we decided to extend our stay by 3 days--to a full week!

*** *** ***

New Orleans welcomed us with open arms. When folks at parades learned it was our first Mardi Gras, these complete strangers put glitter on my face and helped me get beads and other "throws" from the floats. They told anyone who would listen that we were first-timers. They were so excited to share the "real" Mardi Gras with us.

At the 6 parades we attended with throngs of thousands at each, we saw only one minor altercation that appeared to be squelched quickly by parade-goers. The crowd was all ages and all colors--granted, most appeared mostly aligned on politics--liberal, in this conservative state. Even after the tragedy of New Year's Eve on Bourbon Street, Mardi Gras revelers were not deterred. Many locals compare Mardi Gras to Christmas -- a time when everyone is a little nicer. I think it is even better. Even though Mardi Gras is a Christian holiday with predominantly pagan themes, there appears to be no elephant in the room about the "reason for the season." Mardi Gras in New Orleans is clearly a time to come together, have a good time, and celebrate community pride...at least THAT is the local reason for the Mardi Gras season.

It is also an annual fundraiser for schools and churches. In late January, the schools & churches along parade routes switch to "Mardi Gras mode" and make annual bank off the community party. They charge $1 for restroom access and sell plates of yummy food for $15. To prepare for the busiest five days of Mardi Gras, schools close on the Friday before Fat Tuesday. They stay closed the rest of Mardi Gras week to give everyone some well-deserved time off (I don't think it is to give everyone contemplative time to begin their repentance on Ash Wednesday, because it is well-known that the slopes in Colorado are covered with Louisianians about that time...).

*** *** ***

As we walked back to our car after our last parade several folks along the path wished us a nice evening. Everyone was clearly bouyant. It had been a wonderful street party...and it was only the Thursday before Fat Tuesday.

A man sitting in a recliner and riding down the street in a parade. — The "Laissez Boys" on their motorized recliners.

Women dressed in colorful costumes walking in formation down a street with crowds cheering them on. — A "walking group" in the Muses Mardi Gras parade.

Tall colorful puppet managed by two men as they walk down the street in a parade. — Muses Mardi Gras parade puppet.

Colorful puppets and motorized miniature floats in a parade. — A fish group in Muses Mardi Gras parade.

Colorful parade float with people on top throwing beads to cheering crowds below. — Mystery Machine float in Muses Mardi Gras parade.

Papier-mache figure of main with RFK on a green t-shirt drinking from a milk carton that says "Raw" and a sign below that says "Froot Loops." — Yes, there were some left-leaning political floats...focusing on local and national issues and figures.

Crowd cheers under large float of yellow ducks during night parade; festive lights and tree canopy visible. Signs and joy fill the scene. — Muses Mardi Gras parade float.

Women lying in motorized bathtubs riding down a street with crowds lining the street. — Women in motorized bathtubs. Spa time!

Men in red jackets and blue shorts marching down a street with crowds lining the street. — The "610 Stompers," a walking group in Muses Mardi Gras parade.

The "Flambeaux." These pay homage to the Mardi Gras parade times before electric lighting. Only slightly scary to see groups walking with propane tanks on their backs and open flames above their heads.

Lighted yellow-orange Chinese lanterns on a float with dressed up people on board. — Chinese Lantern float with Muses on board throwing beads and other plastic prizes.

Row of high school marching band tuba players. — So many marching bands!!

Children and teens dressed in lime green and blue parade outfits twirling batons. — LOVED the multi-aged marching groups from the schools. Lots of small marchers mixed in with their older peers.

Man dressed up like Elvis standing next to a decorated scooter. — One of the "Elvi" marchers before the parade.

Mardi Gras in a nutshell:

there are MANY Mardi Gras parades over more than two weeks in different neighborhoods throughout the city
each parade is hosted by a Krewe
a Krewe is a club of hundreds or over a thousand members with a theme (Muses, Krewe of Hermes, Krewe of Druids, etc.)
each parade has dozens of floats (with Krewe members aboard throwing beads and other plastic prizes), high school marching bands, and "walking groups" (adult theme-based dance groups, drill teams, puppetry teams, and more).
the more parades you go to the braver you get to jump into the fray and beg the Krewe members to "throw me something, mister!"
a parade is basically a street show for a 5-mile-long feel-good community street party.

Lighted up long puppet with two puppeteers walking down a nighttime street with crowds looking on. — Mardi Gras puppet creature.

People parade at night with colorful giant puppets on a street lit by lamps; the background shows a building with purple lights. — More puppets!

Young presenting man in a sequined outfit twirling batons. — Twirling is for EVERYONE!

Line of tuba players shining in the sun while walking in a parade. — You can never have enough tubas!

Despite the incredible affront to my environmental ethics by all the garbage and plastic crap generated by the event, I was overtaken by the experience of the warm hug of a NOLA Mardi Gras.

*** *** ***

Another powerful stop on our last day was StudioBE, a warehouse of art installations in the Bywater neighborhood. The Driving While Black game in the "arcade" installation really hit me hard. The goal of the game: "to get HOME SAFE." Watching 5 minutes of this game was incredibly powerful. Instead of the obstacles of Mario Kart, the obstacles were policemen asking, "Is this your car?" and, "Can I see your license and registration?" It gave me serious feelings of fight or flight. I was scared for the black boy behind the wheel. The stakes were high.

I bought a shirt on the way out.

Person wearing a T-shirt with colorful text "POWER TO THE PEOPLE." The shirt features vibrant, hand-drawn letters, creating a positive mood. — T-shirt from StudioBE by artist and community-builder BMike.

*** *** ***

We packed up and left my cousin's, but NOLA was not done with us. When we stopped for gas (very near the 9th Ward that Hurricane Katrina so thoroughly destroyed), three different men (black, white and hispanic) went out of their way to connect with us--keeping the NOLA arms wide open. First, while waiting in line for a pump, a friendly fellow RVer walked up and motioned for me to roll down my window. We expected him to ask us about our "rig," but instead, he wanted to give us a tip about an RV site he'd found for Mardi Gras week, in case we were looking. He was a Katrina refugee -- he moved away after the hurricane and now he was back (and brought a friend) to celebrate Mardi Gras. The next encounter was the guy filling up his car ahead of us--apologetically calling out, "Sorry! The pump is so slow!" He pulled out and we pulled up. As I pumped our gas and leaned on the car staring into space, another gentleman couldn't keep from coming up to me with a face full of smile and tell me in broken English to "trying not be too serious!" We both laughed and he chuckled back to his car.

We pulled out and hit the road, within a few blocks, a guy driving along side us started honking. We looked over and he was holding up a Colorado flag inside his car, giving us a thumbs up. He just happened to have a Colorado flag in his car?? It feels like people here cannot keep themselves from connecting with others, especially visitors. Our Colorado plates and travel trailer give us away and we are the beneficiaries of the ever-present NOLA welcome mat.

*** *** ***

I know that horrible hateful things have happened in this city. It has a scary high crime rate--but it has been going down for a couple years. Maybe the timing of our trip was just fortuitous. For whatever reason, we experienced a wonderful reality--that thousands upon thousands of people come together each year to celebrate each other--to cheer on the sweating tuba players and drummers, the cheer teams and flag twirlers. They cheer all genders of baton twirlers in their sequined outfits, teens of shapes and sizes prancing in their leotards, the varying styles of high-stepping drum majors. Mom's proudly exclaim to their littles, "That's my old school! That's where you are going to go!"

I experienced a New Orleans that is proud, communal and welcomes and embraces visitors and people from all walks of life. Thanks, NOLA, I needed that.

Comments