Days 53-56: A Spit, An Icefield of Glaciers and Russian Old Believers
- Karen Derrick-Davis
- Jun 24
- 3 min read
Wildlife Bingo
Sea Otter
Bald Eagle nest with chicks
Highlights
Views from Homer
Homer Spit
Hiccups
Husband's head cold
Quick stop in Sterling
On our way to Homer from Anchorage, we found a Harvest Host, Timberline Farms, near Sterling. I always enjoy talking to the hosts and F was no different. He and his family have been creating their farm for the last 20 years. They are also building a restaurant/brewpub on the property. We were happy to patronize the farm by buying some lovely lettuce, green onions and eggs.
Our Farthest Destination: Homer
Homer was a great location for our farthest point from home (7,000+ miles into our trip with all of the detours) – camping at the tip of a four-mile spit into Cook Inlet with spectacular (have I overused that word??) snow-covered peaks and glaciers just across the water.
From the cliffs above, Homer Spit looks narrow (which is it) and vulnerable (which it is) -- like one big wave could wash over it and take everything with it. In fact, during the 1964 earthquake that destroyed Valdez, the Homer Spit sank 5 feet and they did have to rebuild.
While on the spit, the gentle laps of the water are soothing rather than threatening. The shops, restaurants and charter services along the spit are welcoming and the atmosphere is festive. In June, the nearly 24-hour mountain and glacier views are magical. I enjoyed my 9pm walks on the beach -- admiring the cloud formations, watching children toss rocks into the water, and spotting a sea otter playing off the shore. The whole peaceful scene feels like life in slow motion. It was really hard not to stay up every night until way past my bedtime with the midnight sun!
Russian history on the Kenai Peninsula (where Homer sits at the southern tip) dates from 1791 when Russian Orthodox missionaries established churches.
Near Homer is an area of villages with a more recent connection to Russia. In 1968, Old Russian Believers settled in the region, seeking to distance themselves from the modern world. I'd say they have succeeded. However, I did several families in their traditional clothing in the grocery story, so I guess they don't live only on homegrown food in total isolation.
Alaska: A Northern Texas?
I find the people here in Alaska very friendly -- from "Sorry for getting in your way! :)" in the grocery store aisle to friendly campground hosts and shopkeepers. Yesterday, a guy staying in the campground needed a jump for his truck and, within a few minutes, his camping neighbor offered to help -- both had Alaskan plates. My assessment is that when folks live in a harsh climate like this with resources often far away, people have to rely on each other to make it. Though I did meet J who lives in Anchorage and told me that folks in the summer seem less friendly than the rest of the year. I wonder if that is because of the huge influx of non-Alaskans, both seasonal workers and tourists...
I'm beginning to think that Alaska feels like a very cold Texas -- most people you meet are polite and friendly, and lots of people wear boots! Granted, the boots are made of rubber rather than leather! I succumbed and bought me a pair!
I saw this t-shirt. Guess I am not the only one comparing the two... ;)
Fellow Travelers
Two brothers from Tennessee on a trip and in awe of the beauty, trying to get a good shot of the sea otter.
Lyft driver, J. We talked about music and playing the guitar and pushing yourself to do things when you feel apprehensive. He mentioned that people seem less friendly in the summer when all the seasonal workers and tourists are around.
Heading Home
We have planned a different route home, but right now there are forest fires along it in British Columbia. We will monitor the situation and make a final decision when we reach Watson Lake, Yukon.
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